I'm going to spend the next few posts getting caught up on some trips and hikes I've done over the past year.
On April 13 - 14, 2019 I did an overnight backpacking trip on the Appalachian Trail with my friend Brian. This was the first backpacking outing I had done since July of 2018. Since it had been a while, I chose what looked on paper to be a fairly easy hike - 4.9 miles from start to finish. I had already day-hiked from the game lands parking lot at Route 309 to the power line about 2 miles in, so I knew the first 2 miles or so were easy hiking. The route included the Knife Edge and Bear Rocks but I figured the overall mileage was short enough it would be a good starter trip for the year.
Before I get started on the trip, the guide I used for planning this, and most of my AT hikes - is the following excellent book:
Hike Plan
The plan was to start at the game lands parking lot on Route 309 on Saturday afternoon around 2:00, hike north and find a usable camp site - ideally right before the main rocks started - maybe at the New Tripoli site, maybe at the first great view to the south. Then hike the rest out in the morning - including the Knife Edge and Bear Rocks, and wrap up by 11:00 or 11:30.
Day 1 - Saturday April 13, 2019
We started around 5:00 on Saturday. After parking one vehicle at the Bake Oven Knob overflow lot, we drove over to the game lands parking lot at the top of Route 309. There were a few vehicles there but not many so I figured we might not see a lot of people on this section.
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| Figure we have about two hours to hike and get camp set up, based on the sun position |
After packs were loaded up, we started walking. The first two miles like I mentioned above is mostly rock-free, but we found that all the rain we had been receiving this spring made for a pretty swampy hike. I was not wearing waterproof shoes either - I had my cheapo Wal-Mart Ozark Trail low cut hikers on. I tried to step around most of the swampier spots, but my feet were definitely damp till we got to the campsite.
We stopped at the first overlook to the south to see if this was a viable option but unfortunately there were a lot of dead trees and what looked like could be widow-makers overhead. I hung there a bit while Brian walked forward a bit to check out the other sites. The thought was if there was better up ahead we would move on, but if not, we could make do at this site, even if it wasn't the most optimal spot.
It felt good to drop the packs and enjoy the view a bit.
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| View from the first small campsite - looking south |
Speaking of packs, this was my first outing with the Granite Gear Crown 2 I got for Christmas. I'm planning on doing a separate review of the pack but so far I really like it.
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| My new GG Crown 2 on the right (green) |
Brian came back and reported that the other sites up ahead were empty and looked to be in better shape so we picked up and moved on.
When you get to the New Tripoli campsite side trail (blue blaze), there are two makeshift campsites right off to the right of the trail as you head down it. We opted for the higher of the two. It looked like a pretty good windbreak as it is probably 50-75 feet down off the main ridge, and we would also have a good view of the sunset as we were setting up. Turns out we were right:
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| This is what hiking and camping is all about |
The sun was dropping as you can see in the photo above so we made pretty quick work of getting hammocks and tarps hung.
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| My Bear Butt rig all set up |
By the point we got done, the sun was behind the horizon, but everything was set up so it was time to get dinner out and water boiling. I also started gathering up some twigs to get a fire going. Dinner was Thai peanut noodles - homemade mix in a bag. I've made this before but I made some tweaks to the mix and the process.
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| Sun is down and we are about to get a fire going |
The fire was a very welcome addition to the evening. Combined with the awesome view to the west as the sun dropped, it was easily one of the most relaxing and peaceful evenings I've spent in the woods. Don't believe me? Judge for yourself:
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| Fire starting up |
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| It doesn't get a whole lot better than this right here |
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| The colors of the sky this night were unbelievable |
To top it off, the moon was out and visible through the trees overhead which just added to things. I managed to look up at the right time and snap this amazing photo as the fire reflected off the oak trees overhead:
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| The moon and trees illuminated by our fire |
This was easily one of the most peaceful and content evenings I have ever had in the woods. The fire, the sunset, the moon, and just relaxing on the trail away from all the distractions of life made for a special time.
The weather was about to drop to around 50 degrees so I was looking forward to trying out my Hammock Gear underquilt and top quilt, as I had not had an opportunity to use them prior to this trip.
Day 2 - Sunday April 14, 2019
As usual, it took me forever to get comfortable and fall asleep but once I did, I slept pretty good. I need to start getting out for multi night trips because the first night I sleep ANYWHERE other than my own bed (hammock, tent, cabin, beach house, hotel for work trips, etc) I do not sleep well. It seems to take me forever to fall asleep. I'd love the opportunity to really sack out that second night and sleep like a log. I've done it many other places but so far my backpacking outings have all been single night trips. I will change that soon.
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| My morning view at first light |
Around 6:30 I got up and started my usual routine... pee, boil water, eat breakfast and drink coffee, tear down camp and head out. Breakfast this morning for me was a homemade bag of oatmeal that I put together. I love oatmeal on the trail for breakfast. There's something about spooning out globs of sticky oatmeal and strong black coffee that I really enjoy, especially on chilly mornings. Weather was cool but not cold.
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| Our little campsite in the morning |
After breakfast, we packed up pretty quickly and hit the trail. I think it was around 8:00 or 8:30. We stopped briefly at the overlook to the south right as the rocky section was starting up. What a beautiful view:
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| View to the south again, right as the rocky section begins |
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| Brian enjoying the view |
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| The rocks start - knew the flat terrain was too good to be true |
Once the rocky section started up, it was by far one of the rockiest sections I've been on in PA. And I've hiked everything from Hawk Mountain to Delaware Water Gap. This section was bad. Just tons and tons of mid-size rocks, lots of them loose - no real flat section to get footing on. I feel like I've gotten used to Pennsylvania's rocks over the last how many years, but this was unpleasant. Then we got to the Knife Edge.
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| The path leading up to the Knife Edge. AT architects definitely had a sense of humor |
If you've hiked the AT you know that there are tons of sections where there seems to be a much easier path but the architects of the trail decided - why make it easy, let's route the trail up and over this ridiculous loose boulder ridge. Knife Edge is one of those. I imagine this sort of thing appeals to some who enjoy more challenging adrenalin-fueled outings, but I am not one of those souls. I can't help it - the idea of dying or even riding to the emergency room is not particularly appealing to me.
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| The Knife Edge - I can't imagine doing this in wet weather |
The Knife Edge was probably 300 yards or so of quartzite boulders stacked up in a vertical pile by either the glacial retreat or some practical joker - whoever or whatever was responsible for it doesn't really matter - it sucked. Luckily the weather was dry - I can't imagine trying to navigate this with slippery footing, especially with a large pack on your back. It would probably be much better with nothing or just a day pack on, but with the backpack it was definitely challenging. Not a lot of room for error. But, I made it through and onward we hiked.
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| Another great view to the south along the way |
There were more rocks and a few great views to the south along the way. We ran into a group of scouts who were out for a hike - we ended up seeing them again at the parking lot off Route 309 when we were picking up the other car at the end of our hike. They didn't seem quite as fazed by the rocks as my 48 year old self did. Imagine that.
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| P's Peak section |
Eventually we got to the section known as Bear Rocks. Bear Rocks is not officially on the trail, but rather off to the north side. There are little red blazes leading up to the rock formation, and for about a half mile before we got there, we started seeing blazes and signs with question marks on them - I was wondering what these were about but once I got to Bear Rocks I realized that's what the intent was.
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| At the bottom of Bear Rocks (off to the left in the background) |
We started climbing up the rocks. And when I say climbing, I mean you are going to need to grab rocks with both hands and swing legs up to the next level of rock. This was not an easy thing to do. I ended up throwing my trekking poles up to the next rock, then hoisting my fat ass up onto the next level. Wash, rinse, repeat. All with my full pack on. I should have left it at the bottom - this would have been much easier. Oh well, you know that whole thing about hindsight...
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| Brian heads up Bear Rocks |
Eventually I got to the point where I started wondering how the hell I was possibly going to get back down with my full pack on so I figured I was up high enough. As you can see from the photo below, I never made it to the top. With the pack I just wasn't sure how I would be able to make all this work. So I started scampering back down - I took the pack off at one point so I could shimmy down through a gap in the ledge and then pulled the pack down. I'm actually completely amazed I managed to get down without falling and breaking something. I hear the views from the top of Bear Rocks to the north are pretty amazing - I guess I'll have to verify this some other trip.
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| Up on Bear Rocks, though not at the top |
From Bear Rocks, it's not too much longer with rocks and then the trail widens into an old fire road, which makes for really easy hiking out the last half mile. We got to the truck at Bake Oven Knob parking lot (no damage - awesome!) and so ended our weekend adventure.
Final Thoughts / Improvements For Next Time
- Other than the scout troop, we saw one other guy on the trail and that is it. It amazes me that such an easy section with great camping options would be pretty much empty on a weekend with great weather like we had. I'm not complaining as I enjoy the solitude but it surprised me.
- I absolutely loved the campsite we camped at. The fact that it was a bit down from the main ridge and sheltered from the wind coupled with the view of the west as the sun went down made for a memorable evening for sure. Lots of trees for hanging hammocks and an easy walk in means I will definitely be camping here again.
- The Knife Edge is definitely treacherous, especially with a 30 lb. pack on your back. The weather was favorable when we went across it, but I cannot imagine trying to do it in the rain or with slippery footing.
- Next time I hike this section I will leave my pack at the bottom and not try to hoof it up Bear Rocks with the full pack on. It made getting up the rocks way more difficult than it needed to be.
- The terrain of this section is fascinating - 2 miles on either side of some of the easiest hiking I've yet seen on the PA AT, with a creamy filling of some of the worst rocks and boulders I've seen.
- I need to find a better way to make my Thai peanut noodles. I love this meal for backpacking, but I'm always eating hard noodles. I think next time I am going to add the water to the noodles, keep the bag with the water and boiling noodles in the cozy until the noodles are soft, then drain the water and dump the sauce in.
All in all this was a pretty great section hike and I am definitely looking forward to camping here again.
